Gallo Nero

A 13th-century armoury at the edge of the Leocorno contrada, now a candlelit dinner spot a short walk from Il Campo. The dining room pairs medieval stonework with mid-century furniture, which shouldn't work but does. The kitchen leans into Sienese meat cookery while drifting occasionally toward the sea. Below it all, a wine cellar carved from Etruscan tufa holds around 300 labels, which is a very good reason to linger.

One honor, in evidence: