Il Frantoio

The old millstone and olive press are still in the dining room, left exactly where they were when this was a working oil mill. It's a restaurant now, all vaulted ceilings and rough stone walls in the hills of Colle di Val d'Elsa, with piazza tables in summer. The setting promises rustic simplicity, and the chef quietly ignores that promise, turning out dishes that are technically precise and a little unexpected, the kind of food that makes you put your fork down and reconsider.