Jaizkibel

A Basque dining room tucked into a residential corner of Madrid, where bonito tuna gets its own section of the menu in season because the kitchen treats ingredients as the whole point. The à la carte runs deep: cod preparations, rice dishes, slow-cooked stews, and a tasting menu alongside. The hake neck, cooked simply and finished with garlic and parsley oil, is the kind of dish that makes you distrust anything fancier.

One honor, in evidence: