KIKU Restaurant by Jan Fribus

Named for the Japanese chrysanthemum, this eight-course tasting restaurant in a restored half-timbered building threads Japanese technique through French classical touches and whatever the season is offering. Dim sum alongside bisque, hibachi venison with hoisin: the menu moves around without losing the thread. The chefs come to the table to explain the dishes themselves, which either sounds delightful or slightly nerve-racking, depending on your table.

One honor, in evidence: