La Ferme aux Grives

Cuts of meat and poultry turn on a spit over an open fireplace at this old village inn, where exposed beams, terracotta tiles, and a kitchen garden set the scene for the kind of rich, sauce-heavy regional cooking that makes you forget you were ever in a hurry. The pastry is buttery, the portions are generous, and in good weather the garden terrace opens up. Traditional French country dining, essentially unchanged and unbothered about it.

One honor, in evidence: