La Table Lionel Giraud

Polished black and white concrete floors and sculptural one-piece seats sit inside walls of bare medieval stone, which sets the mood for what follows at this two-Michelin-star creative restaurant in Narbonne. The chef is a practitioner of ikejime, the Japanese technique of dispatching fish to preserve the flesh, and that kind of quiet obsession runs through everything, from Mediterranean red tuna down to a plate of green beans treated with equal seriousness.

One honor, in evidence: