L'Agave

A young chef cooking Ligurian to its bones, right at the tourist marina in a tiny clifftop village where the sea view alone makes the GPS confusion forgivable. This is a tasting-menu restaurant, though you can order à la carte, built around the region's produce: Albenga artichokes, Pigna beans, pine nuts, local seafood, and the foraged herb mix called prebugiun. Everything on the plate is an argument for staying in Liguria forever.