Le Bélouga

Floor-to-ceiling glass frames the Sept-Îles archipelago, so the view does half the work before the food arrives. This is the fine dining restaurant inside the L'Agapa hotel in Perros-Guirec, where the kitchen runs between classical French technique and the occasional left-field idea. Evenings lean more formal and ambitious; the rest of the week dials back toward relaxed bistro territory, which is a sensible way to run a room on the Breton coast.

One honor, in evidence: