Le Petit Bellevue

Five tables in a fine dining room inside the Bellevue Hotel, two of them facing the Gran Paradiso massif, which does some heavy lifting as a backdrop. The chef, a Tuscan, cooks the Aosta Valley with unusual fidelity, pulling char and roe deer from the mountains rather than his roots. A cheese cart arrives between courses like a polite ambush, and the wine list has quietly wandered into Georgia, Turkey, and Japan.