Le Serghi

A terrace on the old port of Saint-Martin-de-Ré is what draws you in, but Philippe Tredgeu, who ran Parisian bistros before making the island move, is the reason to stay. This is a proper sit-down restaurant with a decidedly Parisian sensibility, built around seasonal ingredients and the kind of indulgent, classical recipes that feel slightly rebellious on a sleepy Atlantic island. One of the few spots here that keeps the lights on year-round.

One honor, in evidence: