LEAF

A raised bed of cress and herbs grows right into the counter, which tells you something about how seriously the kitchen takes its vegetarian concept. LEAF is a contemporary restaurant in a quiet residential neighborhood near the university, running a four-course menu or a longer chef's tasting, both with wine or non-alcoholic pairings. The room is sleek and modern, the sourcing is regional and seasonal, and the service is the kind that doesn't need to announce itself.