Les Pieds dans le Plat

The Molteni oven near the window is the first thing you notice, and it sets the tone: this is a Michelin-starred modern French restaurant in rural Belgium where the cooking is rooted and generous rather than fussy. The chef works a Gallic repertory with a sure hand, and the room, with its living plant walls and a patio alongside, leans romantic without trying too hard. Prices stay remarkably grounded for the level of cooking on the plate.

One honor, in evidence: