Likoké

A Michelin-starred creative restaurant tucked into the Ardèche countryside, where a Colombian chef and his Belgian front-of-house partner run a single set menu that wanders the globe without leaving the region. The cooking is playful and visually vivid, drawing on memory and travel while sourcing cheese, pigeon, and vegetables from just down the road. The ceviche of matured trout shifts with the seasons and gives a fair sense of what to expect: precise, surprising, and not especially easy to categorize.

One honor, in evidence: