LIMES aan den Rijn

The terrace sits right against a business park and looks out over the river, which somehow works in the restaurant's favor. This is a French kitchen where sauces are the whole argument, the kind of cooking where Calvados depth in a foie gras cream is the point, not the garnish. The open kitchen keeps things relaxed without turning casual. The Michelin Guide has it listed among its selected restaurants.

Two honors, in evidence: