Mama Fatma

Pita baked in a wood-burning oven arrives at the table looking like a small dome, and that's before the kebabs charred over coals or the meat spinning on a spit show up. Mama Fatma is a Turkish grill in Mississauga where portions run large and tables tend to disappear under platters. The kayseri mantisi, tiny beef dumplings in garlicky yogurt, could carry a meal on their own. Hot tea closes things out, because there's never room for dessert anyway.

One honor, in evidence: