Mammaròssa

A modern trattoria in the heart of Marsica where vegetables hold the center of the plate and fermentation shows up in careful, measured doses rather than as a statement. The room is spare and bright, the kind of place that earns its seriousness without announcing it. The cooking follows the season and the territory, and the flavors are clean in a way that suggests someone in the kitchen actually knows when to stop. Selected by the Michelin Guide.

Two honors, in evidence: