Matsuzushi Tanigawa

The exterior still looks like it did under the previous owner, a deliberate Showa-era holdover in a residential pocket of Abeno, while inside the room has been quietly remade into the current chef's space. This is a neighborhood sushi counter where the fish comes from Osaka Bay, rested before service to coax out the flavor, then set on lightly vinegared rice. A Michelin star, and the kind of unhurried warmth that makes you feel like a regular on the first visit.