Mesón del Pastor

Decorative paper figures line the staircase, a nod to Morella's El Sexenni festival that only comes around every six years, which gives the dining room a lot of patience to fill. This traditional restaurant, tucked into the historic walled quarter, works a wood grill hard on local game and red meats. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand, and in autumn and winter the kitchen leans into wild mushrooms and truffles in ways that draw pilgrims from well outside the walls.

One honor, in evidence: