Vinatea

A thirteenth-century well sits in the dining room floor, glassed over, which sets the tone for this quietly serious restaurant in the old walled town of Morella. The cooking reworks traditional local recipes with modern technique, and the tasting menu leans on nearby producers and whatever the season allows. The room itself, a restored medieval house with a vaulted wine cellar below, does a fair amount of the heavy lifting before the food even arrives.