Modus

A pizzeria on Corso Magenta where the chef imports his Cilento roots wholesale, from the long-fermented dough to the dense, fragrant tomato. You choose between traditional and contemporary styles, and the menu wanders beyond pizza into southern staples like stuffed eggplant and seafood pasta. The room runs elegant and unhurried, the staff quietly attentive. Ranked 19th on 50 Top Pizza Italy, it draws a Milan crowd that dresses for the neighborhood.

Two honors, in evidence: