Nublo

A Michelin-starred tasting menu restaurant inside a 16th-century aristocratic property, where the renovation kept the wear and the character rather than smoothing it all away. The chef, who trained at Mugaritz, runs two menus rooted in La Rioja's ingredients and landscapes, with wood-fired cooking doing a lot of the heavy lifting. The internal patio, presided over by a glowing goddess at night, is the kind of room that makes you forget to check your phone.