Riva

Pike-perch in bouillabaisse sauce tells you what this Mediterranean restaurant is doing: Estonian waters, southern sun, same plate. The room leans into it with a bright, slightly flashy style that matches the ambition on the menu. The team keeps it warm rather than stiff. Lunch runs shorter and lighter; dinner is where the kitchen stretches out. Sits on the waterfront in Tallinn's old port, which makes the tagline about northern shores and southern seas feel less like marketing copy than it should.

One honor, in evidence: