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  1. Row on 45

    French-influenced Japanese

    Save to a list Write a review On the Way Around

    Jason Atherton's fine dining room on the 45th floor of Grosvenor House seats just 22 people and runs a 17-course French-Japanese tasting menu in three acts, moving guests between spaces as the evening unfolds. The chef's table, four seats facing the open kitchen, books out fast. Ankimo, uni, and soba carry the Japanese thread; French technique holds it together. It holds two Michelin stars and a Forbes Five Star.

    The awards strongest first

    One number, weighted & current 95

    How we score

    The dishes from the writeups

    • Ankimo

      “Atherton's love for Japanese ingredients and culture is evident through notable inclusions on the 17-course tasting menu, such as ankimo, Akkeshi oysters and soba.”

      The 50
    • Akkeshi oysters

      “Atherton's love for Japanese ingredients and culture is evident through notable inclusions on the 17-course tasting menu, such as ankimo, Akkeshi oysters and soba.”

      The 50
    • Soba

      “Atherton's love for Japanese ingredients and culture is evident through notable inclusions on the 17-course tasting menu, such as ankimo, Akkeshi oysters and soba.”

      The 50
    • Saroma wagyu beef

      “Head chef Daniel Birk toys with global ingredients in a 17-course tasting menu, but it’s Atherton’s affinity for Japanese cuisine shines through in dishes such as Saroma wagyu beef, uni and bluefin maguro.”

      The 50

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Eat Score

The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

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    Drink Score

    The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

      How we score →

      Stay Score

      Four fifths of the score is the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin Key outweighs a listicle. The last fifth is where it is: the ranked places to eat and things to do around it, and how safe the country is. When you sort by what's nearby, distance from you changes the order, never the score.

        How we score →

        Do Score

        The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

          How we score →

          Best Place Score

          The Best Place Score rates the area around a point, not any one place. The places are 60% of it: the best of what's within reach, weighed by distance. The setting is the other 40%: how life goes in that country (how people rate their own lives, how long and how well they live, how safe they are) and what it's like right there (the air, and the weather). If the score looks low, we probably haven't found enough critics out here yet.