Rú

Cantonese fine dining on the seventh floor of a hotel in a neighbourhood more associated with street snacks, which is either a bold move or exactly where you'd hide a room worth finding. The chef brings close to four decades of Grand Hyatt and W Hong Kong kitchen time to classics that arrive subtly but pointedly redrawn. Steamed pork patties with preserved vegetables and salted egg read familiar on the menu and less so on the plate.

One honor, in evidence: