RYLA

A splashy, date-night-ready restaurant in Hermosa Beach where a husband-and-wife team runs a contemporary Japanese kitchen with broad Asian influences. Small plates arrive meant for sharing, though the menu makes a convincing case for possessiveness. The room reads sophisticated without stiffness, and the cooking leans into contrasts, sweet corn and pickled green strawberries cut against rich ox tongue curry rice, while dessert ends things with a spicy ginger-sugared churro.

One honor, in evidence: