Surlì Più Pizzeria

A pizzeria in the Venetian hinterland where the dough gets lighter every season and the seafood toppings are worth the detour from Venice proper. The beer list is taken as seriously as the pizza, which tells you something about the crowd. Dessert shows up at the end, which sounds obvious until it doesn't, and here it earns its place. A neighborhood spot that keeps quietly raising its own bar.

One honor, in evidence: