Tare

There's no sign on the second floor of a North Austin office building, just an attendant at the door who knows you're coming. Inside, a dark granite counter sets the stage for a kappo-style omakase built around dry-aged nigiri, fish sourced from Japan with the occasional Texas curveball, think salsa macha or chicharron in the mix. It reads like a cultural argument conducted very politely, one piece at a time.

One honor, in evidence: