The Five Elms

A thatched, two-room country pub on the edge of the Chiltern Hills, with log fires, a dog-friendly bar pouring local ales, and a garden with a play park across the road. The kitchen, run by a Masterchef: the Professionals semi-finalist with time in serious European restaurants, sends out cooking that is considerably more ambitious than the setting suggests. Walkers in muddy boots and families share the room without either group seeming to mind.

One honor, in evidence: