Tralia

A sourdough-based pizza shop tucked into a strip center on Gateway Avenue, where the menu splits between two very different philosophies: crispy, crackly round pies and Detroit-style squares that rise like they have somewhere to be. The Caesar, buried under parmesan and black garlic breadcrumbs, earns its place as a warm-up act. The Michelin Guide has it selected, which tracks for a place this easy to drive past.

One honor, in evidence: