Ullrs Gourmetstube

Four large tables in a room of pale wood and green tiles set the stage for a Michelin-starred tasting menu that mashes up Alpine, Japanese, and Nordic ideas with a straight face. The kitchen inside St. Anton's Ullrhaus hotel works at a precise, confident clip, balancing shellfish with citrus acidity or pigeon with plum umeboshi in ways that feel considered rather than clever. The wine list leans Austria, Italy, and France, and the service knows exactly when to talk.

One honor, in evidence: