Vescovado

A Michelin-starred restaurant inside a 15th-century bishop's palace, with a terrace that looks out over a small Ligurian bay. The chef builds an elegant, minimalist menu around local catch, listing the fish in dialect so the menu doubles as a vocabulary lesson. The family runs every corner of the room, including a cheese trolley stocked with nothing but regional producers and a wine list that treats Liguria as its own continent before acknowledging the rest of the world.

One honor, in evidence: