The Best Seafood Near Provender, by the Record
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Rank 1. LYLA
Modern Seafood
Champagne trolley upstairs, ageing fridges stocked with charcuterie and top-end seafood, then down to grey velvet and white linen for the tasting menu, which is Stuart Ralston's idea of unapologetic fine dining and he means it. The 28-seat room holds a Michelin star and a spot on the National Restaurant Awards list, and the kitchen leans heavily into sustainably caught fish and shellfish, letting the produce do most of the arguing.
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Rank 2. Leftfield
Scottish Seafood
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Rank 3. Dulse
Seafood
A wine bar downstairs, a seafood restaurant upstairs, and Scottish waters doing most of the heavy lifting on the menu. Shetland mussels and Skye langoustines anchor things, though the kitchen isn't above pulling in Jamaican jerk spice or harissa butter when the mood strikes. The West End crowd tends to start with a glass from the international list and somehow never quite makes it to the stairs.
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Rank 4. Barry Fish
Seafood
Sea trout pastrami is the dish that tells you what kind of place this is: a seafood restaurant on Leith's Shore that lets the fish do the talking without much theatrical interference. The menu moves from shareable small plates at lunch to proper sit-down plates come evening, whole sole, half lobster, and the like. The room has the easy warmth of a place where the staff seem to mean it.
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A converted pub on the St Monans harbour front, where most tables look straight out over the water and a small terrace catches the summer light off the Firth of Forth. The cooking is modern and composed, the kind that leans on whatever the East Neuk coastline drops off nearby. A fixed-price lunch menu and an evening tasting menu keep things focused, which suits the room's quiet, unhurried pace just fine.
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Paintings of the sea cover the walls at this small seafood bistro opposite Pittenweem harbour, which doubles as a gallery for local artists, so you might leave with dinner and a framed print. The blackboard lists what came in that day, langoustines and hake among the regulars, all built around East Neuk produce cooked without fuss. It has the feel of a place the village keeps quietly to itself.