The Best Sushi Near Bar George, by the Record

A curtain rises to dramatic music before the meal even begins, which tells you everything about the register of this omakase counter. Twenty-plus courses move from chawanmushi through nigiri made with fish you may not recognize alongside cuts you absolutely will, including otoro and Hokkaido uni. The pacing is relentless in a good way, and the theatrics are sincere rather than silly, which is a harder trick than it sounds.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

An eight-seat omakase counter in Mile End where the rice alone could start a conversation: pesticide-free, cooked in a cast-iron pot, seasoned to match the fat content of whichever fish comes next. The edomae technique here runs to careful aging and marinating, with fish flown in from Japan several times a week alongside Quebec lobster and Magdalen Islands scallops. The minimalist room doubles as a ceramics gallery. Michelin one-star.

1. Michelin Guide 1 Star
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