Angelo Sabatelli

A few tables and a fireplace under a vaulted stone ceiling in a 16th-century building tucked into the old-town alleys of Putignano: the room alone sets the tone for this Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant. The chef's cooking draws on Apulian tradition without being enslaved to it, and his son runs the floor and a wine cellar deep enough to occupy two volumes and roughly three thousand labels.

Two honors, in evidence: