Antheia

Briana Kim's intimate tasting menu restaurant on Somerset runs nine vegetarian courses that lean hard on fermentation, and the results smell more like a forest than a salad. House-made sesame tofu arrives in pine-smoked tea broth with seaweed mole, a sentence that shouldn't work but does. Preserved figs in black-garlic oil show up somewhere, and you're glad they did. Wine pairings or house-made non-alcoholic drinks round out an evening that is quietly, stubbornly its own thing.