Barrracuda

The dough at this contemporary Messina pizzeria goes through a long fermentation that gives each base a noticeably different aroma from the standard Neapolitan crowd. The "Specials" menu is where the kitchen makes its argument, and the fried appetizers lean artisanal rather than afterthought. The wine list tilts local. Three r's in the name, which either signals confidence or a typo that stuck, and the room seems to lean toward the former.