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A bar with no kitchen and a small oven doing the heavy lifting, Bicchierino pulls off something quietly remarkable in the Giambellino neighborhood. The six-seat bar is usually buried in fresh flowers, and the handful of tables fills fast, so book ahead. Natural wines from France, Italy, and Spain anchor the list, with bottles available to take away. The food, given the constraints, reads like a flex: horse tartare, artichokes with preserved lemon, a roast beef sandwich with anchovy mayo.
The awards strongest first
One number, weighted & current 65
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