CARBÓNCABRÓN

Stacks of mesquite wood line the walls like shelves in some pyromaniac's library, doing double duty as decor and a clear statement of intent. This live-fire contemporary restaurant in San José del Cabo runs a shareable menu of vegetables, seafood, and what the kitchen cheerfully calls "black market" meats, tongue and sweetbread among them. A tasting menu is there if you want the full tour. Bring your hands; the food expects them.

Two honors, in evidence: