Circum-

The name comes from the Latin for "around," a nod to how Chinese food travels and changes as it crosses borders. This fine dining room in the Regent Hotel follows that migration, tracing emigrant foodways through history and reassembling them with French technique. The dishes land somewhere between a childhood memory and a chef's thesis, which sounds more cerebral than it eats. It holds a Michelin star.

One honor, in evidence: