Élise, Poissons & Braise

A fishmonger's counter doubles as the dining room here, with the day's catch from L'Herbaudière's market displayed before you take a seat at the twelve-person bar. It's a modern seafood restaurant built around charcoal cooking, with a short menu of individual plates and a few things meant for sharing. The glass-fronted wine cellar is the only décor anyone bothered with, which turns out to be enough. Alexandre Couillon is behind the project.