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  1. Save to a list Write a review On the Way Around

    Walls plastered with Polaroids and faded Cantopop posters set the mood at this Chinatown restaurant, where the cooking is as high-energy as the room. The menu is compact Cantonese with a loose, playful hand: claypot rice with bacon and sausage, mapo tofu spaghetti that shouldn't work but clearly does. Reservations vanish fast, and the walk-in line forms before doors open. Bon Appétit and Esquire both named it among America's best new restaurants in 2024.

    The awards strongest first

    One number, weighted & current 91

    How we score

    The dishes from the writeups

    • Fried squab

      “The fried squab is a must, arriving impossibly crisp and deeply savory, while the claypot rice with Chinese sausage bits and smoky bacon delivers the kind of rich, craveable comfort you think about for days afterward.”

      Condé Nast Traveler
    • Mapo tofu spaghetti

      “And then there’s the now-signature mapo tofu spaghetti: a collision of Italian and Sichuan influences that somehow tastes like it was always meant to exist.”

      Condé Nast Traveler
    • Xo escargot

      “Nuggets of XO escargot are tucked into shells blanketed with a buttery sheen, served with pillowy milk bread.”

      The New York Times, 2024

    Save to a list Write a review On the Way What's Around
    Address
    710 Commercial St., San Francisco, CA · San Francisco
    Hours

    Closed today, opens Thu 5:30 PM

    • Monday Closed
    • Tuesday Today Closed
    • Wednesday Closed
    • Thursday 5:30 PM to 11 PM
    • Friday 5:30 PM to 11 PM
    • Saturday 5:30 PM to 11 PM
    • Sunday 5:30 PM to 11 PM
    Phone
    415-688-1500
    Reserve
    OpenTable
    Online
    WebsiteInstagram

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Eat Score

The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

    How we score →

    Drink Score

    The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

      How we score →

      Stay Score

      Four fifths of the score is the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin Key outweighs a listicle. The last fifth is where it is: the ranked places to eat and things to do around it, and how safe the country is. When you sort by what's nearby, distance from you changes the order, never the score.

        How we score →

        Do Score

        The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

          How we score →

          Best Place Score

          The Best Place Score rates the area around a point, not any one place. The places are 60% of it: the best of what's within reach, weighed by distance. The setting is the other 40%: how life goes in that country (how people rate their own lives, how long and how well they live, how safe they are) and what it's like right there (the air, and the weather). If the score looks low, we probably haven't found enough critics out here yet.