Garrison

The open kitchen runs long and hot, with live fire doing most of the talking at this upscale American restaurant inside the Fairmont Austin. The menu moves between bright, acid-forward starters and serious grilled meat, so a table here tends to drift toward the Akaushi wagyu by the end of the night. The cooking holds its own well away from hotel-restaurant expectations, which is saying something in a city with no shortage of smoke and ambition.

Three honors, in evidence: