Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

Wood panelling and a Connaught address sound like the setup for a very stiff evening, but the pastel tones and soft furnishings land closer to a well-appointed living room. This is Hélène Darroze's three-Michelin-star modern French dining room, where seasonal produce meets the chef's international influences, lobster arriving with tandoori spices being the kind of combination that either makes you raise an eyebrow or lower it in admiration. The Armagnac trolley at dessert is not optional.