I Pupi

The dining rooms sit inside Villa Palagonia, an 18th-century palazzo that Goethe once wrote about, which sets a certain tone before the food arrives. This is a one-Michelin-star restaurant serving contemporary Sicilian cooking across four tasting menus and a long à la carte, with a chef's table for four and a wine cellar running to around 1,300 labels. The ambition is serious but the roots stay local, with Sicilian meat and fish doing most of the talking.

One honor, in evidence: