Jérôme Ferrer - Europea

Floor-to-ceiling windows look straight into the glass-walled kitchen, so the brigade becomes part of the spectacle before the first course arrives. This is fine dining on the grander end, with silver service, Magdalen Islands lobster, and Appalachian venison built around Quebec terroir and French classical technique. A Michelin star sits above the door. The maple pre-dessert and aperitif pork rinds read as nostalgia, which turns out to be a smart move in a room this polished.

Three honors, in evidence: