Johnnie's Beef

The order at this old-school Italian beef counter is "beef, hot, dipped," and you say it fast because there's a line and nobody here has time for your uncertainty. Johnnie's has been slinging thin-shaved, garlicked beef soaked in its own jus, piled into a roll with spicy giardiniera, since before most of its regulars were born. You eat over the hood of your car in the parking lot, which is not a quirk but the entire point.