Kunjip

The dining room walls look like marble, the ceiling traces a ring of light around wood paneling, and the menu runs about a dozen items. This Santa Clara Korean restaurant keeps its focus narrow: the main pull is seolleongtang, a milky, slow-cooked beef bone broth with oxtail and slippery rice noodles. Weekends pack the strip mall with families willing to wait thirty minutes for a bowl, which tells you most of what you need to know.

Two honors, in evidence: