L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Étoile

Red lacquer and high stools at a long counter facing an open kitchen, tucked into the basement of the Publicis Drugstore off the Champs-Élysées. The format is Joël Robuchon's signature: fine dining, but counter-style, so you watch every plate leave the pass. The one Michelin star follows the format around the world. Order small tasting portions or full plates, and note that wines by the glass come poured from magnums, which is either theater or good sense, probably both.

One honor, in evidence: