Levant

The dishes from the writeups

• Feteer

  “From the looming white-domed oven emerge the flakiest pies, feteer, built of gauzy layers of dough, pressed with ghee and stretched, then folded one inside another around your choice of filling.”

• Basturma

  “Try the basturma, a heavily garlicked air-dried beef that one-ups pastrami, or, for dessert, qushta, clotted cream possessed by the ghost of orange blossoms.”

• Qushta

  “Try the basturma, a heavily garlicked air-dried beef that one-ups pastrami, or, for dessert, qushta, clotted cream possessed by the ghost of orange blossoms.”

• Baklava

  “darkly charred kebabs glistening with fat and herbs, hummus the consistency of whipped butter and baklava with a barely sweet cream layer”