Manoir de Lan-Kerellec

The dining room ceiling is shaped like an upside-down ship's hull, which feels appropriate for a one-Michelin-star seafront restaurant perched above the Channel in Brittany. The chef draws hard on local produce, pairing langoustines with pig's trotter and a regional dairy called gwell, or John Dory with shellfish and wild garlic. The view through the windows is the kind that makes you forget to eat, which given the food here, takes some doing.